update on what was done
I called town hall. A permit and inspection is required. I called
the inspector, flex for water is ok. The county does not require a
permit/inspection for replacing a water heater, but the city does.
I removed the old heater and replaced with a new one. Same gallonage,
but different dimensions (taller, fatter).
I had to cut away some copper for the water. I sweated in a male
threaded insert to the solid copper and joined that to the heater with
corrugated copper flex. I had to bend the flex into a S shape. If the
S shape had been bigger, I guess that would have served as a heat
trap. Supposedly the heater has a diaelectric fitting. The copper
flex has a "rubber hose washer" inside it. Not exactly comforting. I
could probably sweat in solid copper if I have to. If I do redo this,
I will also redo some of the solid copper leading to the heater. It's
been jogged left and right several times that a) looks bad and b) I
For the gas line, I disassembled the old heater's flex (which as only
a few months old. It was put there by the furnace installer who moved
the heater when the new furnace was installed). The gas flex joined
solid black piping on the supply side with solid black piping on the
heater side also. I disassembled the necessary black pipe from the
old heater, cleaned the threads and inspected the pipe. It look OK
for re-use. I re-assembled the gasline -- blackpipe and flex using
thread sealant (pipe dope) on the black pipe joints and reattached the
flex with it's compression fitting (no dope here). I turned on the
shutoff valve, and using soapy water checked all the connections. No
I turned on the water, opened a faucet (blew out the air) and ignited
the pilot (that took awhile.. I'd say over a minute before gas hit the
igniter). The heater fired up and warmed the 50gal tank in about 1.5
While it was warming, I sweated on some fittings to make a copper line
from the expansion valve to floor drain.
I suppose I will go down to town hall and file for the permit and have
it inspected. The cost is like $55.
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 00:25:25 -0700,
Post by email@example.com
Sorry to abuse this group - but I've yet to find another that has the
right "mentality" for doing things right. Something about a WW that
implies a certain character trait for striving for perfection, albeit
with a certain degree of cost consciousness.
ok.. onto the question
I am replacing my water heater. It's taller than the old one, so I
need to make some plumbing changes. The flue should be fine, and I
plan to use the existing gas line (black pipe into the heater - with a
short run of new flex - then into more black pipe (with a shutoff).
I'll wipe off the threads and apply a new batch of dope.
For the water lines, the old one had solid copper down to the heater,
with a compression fitting of sorts right at the heater. I don't
believe I can salvage that fitting. The new heater has male threads,
3/4" I believe.
Should I plumb with solid copper? The most challenging solution? Or
should I use some form of flex? Presumably I'd sweat on a male thread
connector to my solid copper and then use a flex line between solid
and heater. Is there a preference on flex? At HD, I see corrugated
copper and some form of stainless steel. The stainless can be
"pinched" and would seem to be "thinner" which to me implies more
likely to fail.
Any help much appreciated.