What length 7/16" staples for crate making

[Ignoramus7897]

Once in a while I need to make crates.

I recently bought a Senco SNS41 stapler for 7/16" crown, 16 ga staples
(new). I would like to know what staple leg length would be most
suitable. My crates are mostly made from 1/2" plywood and 2x4s. I have
a feeling that it would be 1.75", but I would like to ask for a
"second opinion". Thanks

i

[Swingman]

Post by Ignoramus7897
My crates are mostly made from 1/2" plywood and 2x4s. I have
a feeling that it would be 1.75", but I would like to ask for a
"second opinion". Thanks

If I were stapling 1/2" plywood to 2 x 4's I would use a minimum of 1",
maybe 1 1/4" staples for good measure. Crown staples have good holding
power, IME.

Just my tuppence .... YMMV

[Ignoramus14384]

Post by Swingman

Post by Ignoramus7897
My crates are mostly made from 1/2" plywood and 2x4s. I have
a feeling that it would be 1.75", but I would like to ask for a
"second opinion". Thanks

If I were stapling 1/2" plywood to 2 x 4's I would use a minimum of 1",
maybe 1 1/4" staples for good measure. Crown staples have good holding
power, IME.

Yes, I love staples for their holding power. In the 18 gauge world, 1"
or even 1.25" is not that much -- but maybe it is different with 16
gauge staples. I think that I will buy 1.5, 1.75, and 2" staples at
McMaster and will try all of them.

i

[n***@aol.com]

When we were framing, we were >required< use 2" staples to shoot down
1/2" plywood deck. Having pulled enough of that stuff up, the 2"
staples hold well, and the shorter you get, you get much less holding
power. Besides, the cost between sizes when you get the larger sizes
is nominal.

This assumes that you are using a narrow crown stapler, not a wide
crown (roofing).

I always use the old shopworn formula that I learned years ago, and
that is to pick a length of fastener that is approximately 3 times
longer than the thickness of material you are fastening. So in this
case, the plywood would be 1/2" thick, times three, or 1 1/2". Add
back in the original material, and you have a fastener length of 2".

Remember the coating isn't always some kind of cool adhesive (check
the country of origin) that sets up with the heat of application, but
anymore it seems to be just a binder for the staples unless it is the
tiny 18 ga. guys.

I would get the longest staples I could, with divergent chisel points,
and when assembling shoot the staples so the crown was perpindicular
to the grain, not parallel. You could use shorter staples with glue,
but why take the time?

As always, YMMV.

Robert

[Ignoramus14384]

Post by n***@aol.com
When we were framing, we were >required< use 2" staples to shoot down
1/2" plywood deck. Having pulled enough of that stuff up, the 2"
staples hold well, and the shorter you get, you get much less holding
power. Besides, the cost between sizes when you get the larger sizes
is nominal.

The cost difference is nominal indeed. Since you seem to have some
experience with this stuff, would you say that my Senco SNS41 should
be able to properly nail the 2" staples into regular plywood and 2x4?

I seem to recall, perhaps incorrectly, that 2" staples were a little
iffy and required "softwood only". Is the combo of plywood and regular
2x4s suitable for 2" staples?

My other thought is that a 1/2" nominal plywood with 2" nominal 2x4
really is at best, 2 inches thick together. So a 2" staple,
conceivably, may come out with sharp ends on the other side, something
best avoided.

So to me, a 1 3/4" staple would not compromise much on holding power,
but would definitely not come "out of the other end" and would be a
little less stressful on the stapler.

Post by n***@aol.com
This assumes that you are using a narrow crown stapler, not a wide
crown (roofing).

Yes, it is a regular 16 ga stapler for sheathing.

Post by n***@aol.com
I always use the old shopworn formula that I learned years ago, and
that is to pick a length of fastener that is approximately 3 times
longer than the thickness of material you are fastening. So in this
case, the plywood would be 1/2" thick, times three, or 1 1/2". Add
back in the original material, and you have a fastener length of 2".

Very sensible.

Post by n***@aol.com
Remember the coating isn't always some kind of cool adhesive (check
the country of origin) that sets up with the heat of application, but
anymore it seems to be just a binder for the staples unless it is the
tiny 18 ga. guys.
I would get the longest staples I could, with divergent chisel points,
and when assembling shoot the staples so the crown was perpindicular
to the grain, not parallel. You could use shorter staples with glue,
but why take the time?

The whole point of crating is to make a crate in minimum time
required, that would hold up. I agree totally.

i

[Swingman]

Post by Ignoramus14384

Post by n***@aol.com
that is to pick a length of fastener that is approximately 3 times
longer than the thickness of material you are fastening. So in this
case, the plywood would be 1/2" thick, times three, or 1 1/2". Add
back in the original material, and you have a fastener length of 2".

Very sensible.

Depends ... you shipping gorillas, or chickens?

:)

[Ignoramus6796]

Post by Swingman

Post by Ignoramus14384

Post by n***@aol.com
that is to pick a length of fastener that is approximately 3 times
longer than the thickness of material you are fastening. So in this
case, the plywood would be 1/2" thick, times three, or 1 1/2". Add
back in the original material, and you have a fastener length of 2".

Very sensible.

Depends ... you shipping gorillas, or chickens?
:)

mostly metalworking machines of smaller size.

i