Old Table Saws

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Joe Gwinn

2024-11-08 01:00:57 UTC

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Stop! It's an induction motor, not DC. It will *not* run at twice
the speed, but it will try to get *four* time hotter than designed
for.

Joe Gwinn

knuttle

2024-11-08 02:09:20 UTC

Post by Joe Gwinn

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Stop! It's an induction motor, not DC. It will *not* run at twice
the speed, but it will try to get *four* time hotter than designed
for.
Joe Gwinn

OP: I realize what type of moto

Just Wondering

2024-11-08 06:36:29 UTC

Post by Joe Gwinn

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Stop! It's an induction motor, not DC. It will *not* run at twice
the speed, but it will try to get *four* time hotter than designed
for.
Joe Gwinn

See that :) ? That's a smiley face, it means I was joking.
But maybe getting hotter would burn the sawdust out. :) :)

Rusty

2024-11-08 20:55:39 UTC

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Stop! It's an induction motor, not DC. It will *not* run at twice
the speed, but it will try to get *four* time hotter than designed
for.
Joe Gwinn

See that :) ? That's a smiley face, it means I was joking.
But maybe getting hotter would burn the sawdust out. :) :)

Joe and Clare probably aren't much fun at parties. :)

Joe Gwinn

2024-11-08 23:32:50 UTC

Post by Rusty

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Stop! It's an induction motor, not DC. It will *not* run at twice
the speed, but it will try to get *four* time hotter than designed
for.
Joe Gwinn

See that :) ? That's a smiley face, it means I was joking.
But maybe getting hotter would burn the sawdust out. :) :)

Joe and Clare probably aren't much fun at parties. :)

Probably not. I once discovered a miswired light fixture that could
have electrocuted one of the host's children. I'm not sure that a
smiley would have convinced that it was a joke.

Joe

Clare Snyder

2024-11-08 03:08:17 UTC

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Along with all the magic smoke (and actually, no, it will NOT spin
trice as fast as it is a repuldion start INDUCTION motor which is
frequency dependent - not voltage!!!

Just Wondering

2024-11-08 06:37:36 UTC

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Along with all the magic smoke (and actually, no, it will NOT spin
trice as fast as it is a repuldion start INDUCTION motor which is
frequency dependent - not voltage!!!

Has everyone lost their sense of humor?

Scott Lurndal

2024-11-08 14:28:45 UTC

I inherited my father in laws table saw.Â It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line.Â Â He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it.Â The first time I
took it to a shop.Â The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly.Â Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor.Â Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts.Â The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block.Â Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings.Â The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs.Â I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Along with all the magic smoke (and actually, no, it will NOT spin
trice as fast as it is a repuldion start INDUCTION motor which is
frequency dependent - not voltage!!!

Has everyone lost their sense of humor?

No. But it's easy to miss the :), many readers of rec.woodworking
(if there are any left) will not understand the smiley, and there
are some who possibly may try your suggestion to their detriment.

knuttle

2024-11-08 15:03:51 UTC

Post by Scott Lurndal

I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"

Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)

Along with all the magic smoke (and actually, no, it will NOT spin
trice as fast as it is a repuldion start INDUCTION motor which is
frequency dependent - not voltage!!!

Has everyone lost their sense of humor?

No. But it's easy to miss the :), many readers of rec.woodworking
(if there are any left) will not understand the smiley, and there
are some who possibly may try your suggestion to their detriment.

While I follow several newsgroups and use email a lot, there is one
thing wrong with all of these. Non cary emotion and physical expressions.

Communication is verbal, but for good communication there is a visible
component. If does not come through in written words.

Before I retired worked in a position where many emails were exhanged.
At times after many emails were exchanged there was a time to physically
talk to the person to see their body and eye movements, to fully
understand t

Just Wondering

2024-11-08 17:30:59 UTC

Post by Scott Lurndal